Q.
What size (scale or gauge) is best for a beginner?

A.

That's a big question.  ALL scales look good to me.  If the builder puts enough detail in it.

Cost vs. Size: Think of it as a continuous line with cost on one side and scale at the other. With the smaller scale costing less (for everything from track, rolling stock and engines).  Another truth is... Larger is easier to ride (easier to get on and off, less likely to tip if you lean over).  On the flip side (no pun intended) the larger scales are more difficult to transport.  Not a problem if you plan to keep your stuff on your home track only.  However, it's great to pack up the trailer and hit the road for some other tracks within driving distance.  You may get bored with going around your own track no matter how large it becomes.

And speaking of the above,  if you take your "show" on the road, you will want to know what size gauge track is being used in your area.  Check it out now, before you commit to a scale.  The most popular (most track on the ground, most equipment running) scale in North America is 1.5 inch (or 1.6) = 1' foot which normally runs on 7 1/2" gauge track (with parts of the US and Canada  running 7 1/4" gauge).  But 1.5" scale hasn't always been the most popular.  And I predict the even larger scales/gauges will become more popular in the future.  If space is an issue, remember the large trains need a larger turning radius.

Q. 

What is 1.5" scale? What is 1/8 scale?
A.

1.5" scale means 1.5 inches on the model will equal 1 foot in the real world.  1/8 scale is another name for 1.5" scale. When you divide a 1 foot ruler into 8 parts, those parts are 1.5 inches in length.

Q.

What is 1.6" scale?  

A.

1.6" scale is just slightly larger than 1.5" scale. Some folks prefer to use 1.6" scale since it more closely correlates to "standard" gauge of track if the scale track is 7.5".    Lets work the math to find out what gauge track you would get if you used 1.5" and 1.6" scales.

1.6 scale = .133 in decimals x 56.5" (standard gauge track) = 7.53" or rounded to 7.5" gauge track which is the most popular gauge in the US.
1.5 scale = .125 in decimals x 56.5" (standard gauge track) = 7.25" with is the common gauge in the UK and the NE section of the US.

Q.

Is all the equipment custom made or are there companies that actually make this stuff?

A.
Some locomotives and cars are purchased from a handful of manufacturers world wide.  Check out my list of web sites at  Suppliers  But most are hand built.  Some are from kits (suppliers listed at the web site above) and some are scratch built by talented and resourceful amateur (and pro) machinists.  These machinists deserve a lot of respect in my book.

If you are interested in purchasing some used equipment, go to For Sale

Q.

How do I make or get parts like wheels?

A.
I'm not much of a machinist.  I have turned my own wheels from castings.  I can say this;  It took longer than I had anticipated.  The next time I did a set of wheels, I purchased them fully machined.  It was a great value.

Q.
What is a good locomotive to build for a beginner?

A.
I'm in the process of building a 4-6-0 narrow gauge steam locomotive.  It's coming to my house in sections.  Most of the machining has been done by the manufacturer.  It's more expensive that way but I have only limited experience with a lathe and mill so for me, this makes sense.  The more drive wheels and trucks the locomotive has, the more complicated it is.  I would suggest you keep to something like an early 4-4-0 American to start with.  They don't pull as well but are rather simple compared to the later engines.

Q.
Which is better for me, Steam or Diesel?

A.
Actual steam is not for the beginner.  You will need a mentor to help you along.  If you don't know anyone doing steam, to see if there a live steam railroad in your area, check Live Steam Clubs page for listings.  If you can get to one, visit and ask questions. If you have no mentor and no actual steam experience, I suggest you start with a diesel locomotive.  These are either battery or gas engine powered.  MUCH easier to learn and maintain without experience. Suggest you visit my "suppliers" page and my "for sale" page for used equipment.  You will also need cars and track, both are listed.  You will see links for web sites from live steam companies.

Q.
How does a steam locomotive work?

A.
If you continue to surf the internet you will find more sites on steam engines and steam power.  It's a simple concept but some of the machines get a little complicated.  There are two basic parts to the steam locomotive, the "boiler" and the "engine".  The boiler turns regular water into high pressure, high temperature steam.  It flows out of the boiler via a throttle or regulator in the UK. This controls the amount of steam into the cylinders.  The cylinders are forced back with steam pressure and that forces the wheels to turn via a simple linkage.  The precise time the steam enters the cylinder is part of the magic.  When it's done correctly, it controls the direction and speed of the locomotive.  As steam leaves the boiler, water must be added or you will run out of steam, but worse, you will run out of water and overheat the boiler causing a boiler failure.  So water level control is very important. Here is a good site to explore the inner workings of a steam engine How Stuff Works: Steam Engine

Q.
Where do I go to learn more about this hobby?

A.
You must go over every page of my web site (of course).  After that, try one of the magazines, Live Steam magazine and the 7+ Railroader are great resources for beginner machinists.  I also suggest you purchase "So You Want To Build a Live Steam Locomotive" by Nelson. Click Live Steam Books.  Another good thing to do is visit a live steam railroad and start asking questions.

Q.
My husband and I were trying to find where we could buy a small rideable train and a lot of track to wind through our property. We know nothing about where to look or if its something we'd have to put together ourselves.

A.
Think about the track first.  The track must be laid into the ground so there's a lot of work. Normally you buy the rail and cut the ties out of pressure treated wood. I know of someone that will do that work for you but you sill need to install the track. It's several dollars a foot. It's fun but not a cheep hobby. I suggest you visit a live steam club in your area to see what's involved before you go much further.

Q.
How do you figure the grade on laying out your roadbed?

A.
This answer comes from Ken Denham: If elevation is gained, or lost, changing 1' up or down in a 100' distance, the grade is a 1% grade, 2 feet in 100' is a 2% grade, etc.  When grades over a long distance are necessary, a 1 1/2 % grade is probably ideal.

Q.
I'm thinking of going into business in this hobby, any advice?

A.
As I see it, it's hard to make money in this hobby for 2 main reasons....

  1. Very few people are doing this hobby. You can make money if you mass produce something. But you can't charge what your time is worth if you only make one or two. No one can afford to pay it.
  2. Many of those that are in this hobby are "do it yourself" types. Some buy complete locomotive and cars, but most build their own. Some of us build from kits, others from "scratch".

Most everyone that I know of that manufactures stuff for this hobby is (primarily) a hobbyist first, and a businessman second. In my opinion, you're a hobbyist if you allow fun to come before profit. You'll never get rich in this hobby but you sure can make friends and have fun.

Q.
Who is Jim O'Connor?

A. I work as a maintenance mechanic and stationary engineer with a high pressure boiler operator's license from the city of Chicago.


Jim O'Connor

500 hp. Scotch-Marine fire tube boiler

                                                       self portrait


Jim O'Connor

at The Hesston Steam Show

(aka The La Porte County Historical Steam Society, Inc.)

Photo by Brad E. Smith    


Jim O'Connor
On his home track with his big brother's Dash 9 from MCC.  New in 2004.

                                                                                                               photo by Tom O'Connor