| Q. Where did you get your rail?
A. I bought my rail at the same time the club did as it was a
lot cheaper, however Cannonball has rail (http://www.cannonballltd.com). If you
have a steel yard nearby, you could use steel channel 3/4 X 3/8 X 3/8. It will
work OK. It's hard to bend for curves but it can be done. The cost per
foot would be less. I don't like aluminum wheels on steel rail though, as
they don't last very long.
Please see pictures below for the tie specifications (taken from the Colorado
Live Steamers track plan). I would be careful with what you treat the wood
with as EPA can get rather tough on you. Treated lumber is one way to go but
it's expensive. Motor oil can be used. As I said, check with your local EPA for
what is ok to do.
Q. How far apart are the ties?
A. I set the ties too far apart to start with. The further apart the
ties are, the more derail problems you have. I learned that the hard way.
I nearly broke my wrist when I derailed. It took many weeks for it to
heal. Now the distance between ties is about the width of a 2X2. It takes
a lot of ties, but the track is easier to maintain, curves work better and the
ballast is easier to use.
Q. What type of engines do you operate?
A. I run several engines on my line. One engine is my version of
an SW7 switch engine. Please note that the only "store bought" items are the
wheels. The rest is home made. I also run the "Casey Jones" (see below) and the
'Trolley" at times.

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Q. What did you use for ballast?
A. DO NOT use round rock (pea gravel). The darn stuff
will never settle in. It always moves. Use chipped rock which may be called
fines or chippings in some places. Sharp angular corners help the stones to
"lock" together. Study some real railroad ballast and see what it
looks like. The rocks fit together and lock the ties in place. I think we are
using road gravel now and it's the same type of rock. Just don't waste your time
and money on "pea gravel".
Q. How did you figure the radius of the curves?
A. I guess there are all kinds of formulas for doing the
radius, but I
sure don't know what they are. I went with a "just do it" approach. It worked
out AOK. I had 75 feet from the fence to the house and that worked out to
be about a 15' curve. I cut the yard in half and stuck a stick in the center
with a long string and made the curve to see if I had the room. It worked out to
be a bit over 15' .

I had already built up two power trucks with 10 inch centers. I
just guessed that 15 foot curve would work and it did. I still wonder if it
would go on a smaller curve. I would guess that if you had a big steam
engine you could forget about using a 15' radius. For a small wheel base it
shouldn't be a real problem. I know that the 1" scale will run very well. I
would almost rather do the whole track for 1" as the curves and track
would be a lot easier to build. You could have track all over the place. It
might be worth looking into for a small lot.
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